Pâtisserie B., SF

Pâtisserie B., SF

September 23, 2013  |  featured, food & drink, san francisco  |  No Comments

Even the fluffiness of the croissants makes you happy!

Wow, wow, wow – what a creation! A Parisian style patisserie has finally arrived in San Francisco. Going to this place is an amazing experience. I felt like a child finding a treasure. Everything from the design to the display is exquisite and elegant and has been carried out in grand style. The deserts are magnifiques! You will have difficulty deciding which one to taste… this is the time to surrender to temptation and culinary discovery. Les viennoiseries (pastries) are fresh, crisp, locally inspired and flavorful – even the fluffiness of the croissants makes you happy.

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B. Patisserie is the inspiration of Belinda Leong and Michel Suas. Belinda was a pastry chef at Gary Danko for 8 years before embarking on an international staging in Paris, Barcelona and Copenhagen. While in Paris, she loved les tartines – open-faced sandwiches – and she included them in the menu of her San Francisco’s store. Michel Suas himself created the special levain bread used for them. I overheard from their clients that the cheese and ham tartine, served with a small salad on the side, is awesome.

Michel Suas is a French pastry chef who has worked at a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris, the Barrier. He moved to San Francisco in 1996 and created the San Francisco Baking Institute where Belinda took some classes. Michel has written a well respected book in the field of modern French baking. At B. Patisserie, Michel and Belinda offer the people of San Francisco a gorgeous Salon de thé, which could make you feel for a moment that you might be in Paris. (Just don’t look through the window). But I promise, this is a place that will enchant you!

GateauxB. Patisserie | 2821 California St. (at Divisadero)

 

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We Love Chez Papa

We Love Chez Papa

August 21, 2013  |  featured, food & drink, san francisco  |  No Comments

It seems that every neighborhood in San Francisco has at least one French bistrot, and some have more that one. What a city! Potrero hill has Chez Papa and its sister Chez Maman, and there is no way that it could be otherwise.

As usual, it was a cold San Francisco night. On Van Ness Avenue people were hiding in big sweaters and sporty clothes… Yes, the city will never be the fashion capital of the world. Let’s blame it on the harsh wind and that summer fog. As I crossed 18th Street at Missouri, downtown San Francisco revealed itself in all its urban glory, and the wind quieted down. It is really quite view, even for locals like me.

Chez Papa is the staple place of the hill, and it draws an elegant and eclectic crowd. On the night I visited, the ambiance was quiet and lovely. One table over, a trendy couple was dining on mussels and wine. A group of friends were enjoying their food and each other’s company – even the kids were well behaved and eating their frites with a focused gaze.

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The restaurant is small, sleek, and decorated in earthy red tones. It has a few tables outside for the brave ones.  As we walked in, a server greeted us immediately and offered us a nice table. The service was prompt, courteous, and very discreet. Servers and bussers left us the space we needed, keeping an eye from afar and knowing when to come and go. The manager, Raymond, whom I know, also came to our table to say hello, and we had a small friendly chat.

The web site says this about the food: “We strive to recreate the simple yet subtle flavors of Provence cooking.” A tasty tapanade is brought to each table as a welcome gesture and for wine sipping time. We ordered a second serving, and it was delivered in seconds. As a main course, I chose the black cod on a lentil bed and a side of veggies. It was absolutely delicious and cooked with flair. You can find the whole menu and special dishes by going on their web site. Their menu offerings are delightful and right out of a Provence table.

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Dining out at chez Papa is definitely worth the trip, even from as far as Marin, East or South Bay. And any guest to the city would tremendously enjoy the location and the charm of this so, so San Francisco French bistro on the top of a hill.

Chez Papa Bistrot | 1401 18th St. San Francisco | 415 824-8205

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Philippe Gardelle - The Chef Artist of Chapeau!

Philippe Gardelle – The Chef Artist of Chapeau!

February 8, 2012  |  featured, food & drink  |  No Comments

When you enter Chapeau! and look around, you can’t miss Philippe Gardelle, the chef and owner, stopping from table to table greeting customers. That is when he is not in the kitchen. Laughing and cheerful, his love and appreciation pour over all, faithful clients and newbies to his food. It is fun watching his theatrical personality in action in the restaurant that bears his signature and style on Clement Street. Gardelle has made a name for himself on the San Francisco culinary scene over the years, and his success is due to his immense love of the craft and his passion to share it with others. When you see a chef putting so much meticulous effort and poetry into his food – the decoration of the plates, the colors of his dishes – and into the human connection, then you understand why Chapeau’s has been voted Best French Bistro in San Francisco by Zagat for many years in a row.

A self-taught chef and proud of it, he creates all his recipes by using French techniques spiced with his prolific imagination. The results are unique flavors to make you come back for more. And the food is superb and the ambiance of his small Brasserie is perfect to enjoy it. The salmon-roulade à la sauce mayonnaise is not only beautiful to watch but it is to die for when you taste it. If you’ve never tasted sweetbreads, it’s time to expand your palate and try them here, there is no better place to order them. As for the scallop risotto, I don’t know how to describe it. It was so good, the taste so refined, I still remember it! Nuage de noix is Philippe’s favorite dessert. It has been crafted with love mixed with nougatine, pistachios, roasted hazelnuts, Italian meringue, whip cream and soupe à l’orange – a terrific mix to satisfy any sweet tooth. The chocolate soufflé is also a must.

There is another dimension to this creative man, and it is writing. His own recipes are written beautifully like poems. He wished he could have been alive at the time of Baudelaire or Toulouse-Lautrec. Hélas! Every time he has a day off from work, he stays alone in silence with himself and writes stories. He recites his own poetry and talks with enthusiasm about his historical fiction in the making, taking place in the last century. And the story of Chapeau! Well, that is another story involving a play he wrote. He staged it and played a character wearing a hat, something he couldn’t do in real life. And after the play, he wore the hat every day until he opened Chapeau!, with an exclamation point, meaning hats off!

As he was talking to me, he saw clients leaving the restaurant, he excused himself and went to kiss them goodbuy, the French way, kisses on the cheeks. He came back and said: “San Francisco is a series of beautiful movie scenes but Paris is a post card.” And sometimes, as everyone does, he tends to get a little nostalgic, and then he misses some things from his French past:

Le produit laitier, l’arrière pays, Le Pont Neuf, La Fnac, La Seine and l’humour français.

To meet Philippe in person and taste his beautiful culinary creations, rendez-vous at Chapeau! on 126 Clement Street.

Phone: (415) 750-9787

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